When the Orient Express began operating in the 19th century, passports were optional – the only paperwork required by British travellers was a copy of the Thomas Cook Continental Timetable.
But Brexit and 21st-century biometric checks are killing off the romance of crossing borders for modern passengers looking for the nostalgia of the luxury train journey that inspired Agatha Christie and Hollywood.
Belmond, the company that runs today’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE), has decided to drop the London-to-Folkestone leg of the route because it has become too difficult to cross the border to Calais.
Until now, passengers have been able to ride in art deco carriages of the British Pullman service from Victoria station in London to Folkestone. There they board coaches to cross the Channel to meet Belmond’s continental train at Calais, then, as night falls, they dress for dinner; a compartment in one of the vintage 1929 cars costs from £3,530 to £10,100 per person, so evening dress is required, and jeans, as Hercule Poirot would expect, are banned.
The coach transfer creates an unacceptable risk for Belmond, as there is no way for their passengers to avoid delays crossing the Channel. Travellers, including school coach parties, had to wait up to 14 hours at Dover at the beginning of the Easter holidays two weeks ago, and people also faced queues for Le Shuttle.
Things may get worse, Belmond fears, because the UK and EU are planning new biometric passport checks and extra red tape.
“We’re adjusting operations in 2024 ahead of enhanced passport and border controls,” a Belmond spokesperson said. “We want to avoid any risk of travel disruption for our guests – delays and missing train connections – and provide the highest level of
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